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Minimalist AHA BHA 10%

What Minimalist’s marketing says AHA BHA 10%
Minimalist AHA BHA 10

Minimalist says…
Mildly exfoliates without drying the skin to reveal clear, radiant, and hydrated skin
But does it do what it says it can do? Let us find out…

Disclaimer: What the company says about a product should be given little importance when considering buying it. Decisions should be based on what the ingredients in the product do.

Read the review below to find out if the product ‘ actually’ does what its marketing says it does…

AHA BHA 10% Review

Summary – How much % does it have?

The total percentage of lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid used is 10%. The percentage is important because the percentage used determines the product’s effectiveness.

Salicylic acid used in this product is 1% or less. We know this because it is listed just after phenoxyethanol. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative; the recommended maximum percentage for skincare products is 1%. Hence, salicylic acid used has to be 1% or less.

Salicylic acid has to be between 0.5 and 2% for it to be effective on the skin. The salicylic acid in this product is effective, but its effectiveness is on the lower end. Although salicylic acid reduces blackheads and whiteheads, because of the percentage used here, it might not be very effective at doing that. It will have some impact, but not a lot. If blackheads and whiteheads are your concern, then this product is not the answer.

This leaves between 9 and 9.5% or slightly more (but below 10%) for lactic and glycolic acid together. It uses a higher amount of lactic than glycolic. We know this because lactic is listed before glycolic.

We need between 5 & 10% lactic acid for lactic to be effective as an exfoliant.
We need between 5 & 10% glycolic acid for glycolic to be effective as an exfoliant.

We can’t tell the exact percentages of these two acids used here, but together they should be above 9% but below 10%. So that means each of these acids used here is more on the lower end of their requirement.

Summary – What does it do?


Lactic and glycolic are individually below the minimum required amount for effective exfoliation. Together, both make up the required amount, so is that good enough?

Exfoliating products that contain one acid in a good amount are usually better than those with combinations like this.
But if your skin does not react well to acids and you are worried it will be inflamed (inflamed skin leads to pigmentation), it is safer to use this product.
It works but won’t be as effective as a product with one acid at a reasonable amount.

These two acids will eliminate/reduce the old cells from the skin’s surface. Once these old cells are removed, the skin will brighten and smoothen.

This product is better suited for people with sensitive skin who don’t react well to high amounts of glycolic or lactic acid.


It has sodium hyaluronate and glycerin, which are humectants. Humectants are water magnets—they hold onto water molecules. Having good humectants in an exfoliating product is helpful. When the exfoliating ingredients strip away the dead unwanted cells from the top layer of the skin, your skin becomes vulnerable to losing the hydration underneath (it can evaporate easily). Humectants hang on to the water molecules and keep them in the skin, thus helping the skin stay hydrated.

This is a gentle exfoliating product. Glycolic acid can sometimes irritate darker skin tones – but the percentage used here is unlikely to cause such reactions. Lactic acid is well tolerated by most.

Start slow as it has glycolic – maybe 2 times a week – then gradually increase to more.

How to apply: Cleanse your face first. Then apply this product. Leave it on for a few minutes. Then apply a moisturiser. Preferably, use it at night. Don’t forget sunscreen the next day (never forget sunscreen).

Is this product for you?

This product is for you:
If you are looking for a gentle exfoliator. Exfoliating skin must be a necessary part of your skincare routine.
If you have sensitive skin.
If you are worried exfoliating acids can irritate your skin.

This product is not for you:
If your primary area of concern is blackheads and whiteheads.

Preferably, use it at night. Don’t forget sunscreen the next day (never forget sunscreen).

​

The product’s ingredients

Description of what the ingredients in Minimalist AHA BHA 10% do
Ingredient 1 – Aqua

Function: Solvent

It helps in dissolving other ingredients in the product.

Dissolved ingredients can spread better on the skin.

Ingredient 2 – Lactic Acid

Function: Exfoliant, Humectant, Hydration retaining

It gets rid of the old cells stuck on the skin’s surface. These old cells that are supposed to fall regularly but don’t fall off stick together and form a rough texture on the skin’s surface. Lactic acid breaks the bonds that hold these old cells together – by doing that, it forces them to fall off.
When old cells fall off, newer ones replace them, brightening the skin.

Lactic acid attracts water to the skin, thus adding hydration to the skin (humectant).

It also boosts the production of ceramides. More ceramides in the skin means stronger skin, and this means less water evaporation from the skin (hydration retaining).

It is categorised as a chemical exfoliant. It belongs to the alpha hydroxy acids family.

Ingredient 3 – Glycolic Acid

Function: Exfoliant, Humectant

It gets rid of the old cells stuck on the skin’s surface. These old cells that are supposed to fall regularly but don’t fall off stick together and form a rough texture on the skin’s surface. Lactic acid breaks the bonds that hold these old cells together – by doing that, it forces them to fall off.
When old cells fall off, newer ones replace them, brightening the skin.

Glycolic acid attracts water to the skin, thus adding hydration to the skin (humectant).

It is categorised as a chemical exfoliant. It belongs to the alpha hydroxy acids family.

It is the smallest of all alpha hydroxy acids used in skincare – because of its small size, it can penetrate a bit deeper into the skin. So it is more effective in its exfoliating function. It can also be a bit irritating for sensitive skin if used in large concentrations. Large concentrations can also be irritating for darker skin-toned people.

Glycolic acid also stimulates collagen. Collagen gives skin its strength, keeps it firm, and reduces wrinkles and fine lines. For glycolic acid to stimulate collagen, glycolic acid should be used at 8% or above. I doubt if it is used at that percentage in this product.

Ingredient 4 – Dimethyl Isosorbide

Function: Solvent

Dissolves ingredients that are not water-soluble. Dissolved ingredients can spread and penetrate better.

Ingredient 5 – Methylpropanediol

Function: Solvent, Penetration enhancer

It helps in dissolving other ingredients in the product.

It helps other ingredients, such as salicylic acid, to be more effective by enhancing their penetration.

Ingredient 6 – Sodium Hydroxide

Function: pH adjuster

The pH level refers to how acidic or alkaline a product is. A pH adjuster adjusts the pH level of the product to be compatible with the skin’s pH.

Ingredient 7 – Sodium Hyaluronate

Function: Humectant

Humectants are water magnets. They attract water, like sponges. When applied to the skin’s surface, they draw water vapour from the atmosphere into the skin.

Humectants hydrate and plump up the skin.

Sodium Hyaluronate is a good humectant.

Ingredient 8 – Ethoxydiglycol

Function: Solvent

Dissolves ingredients that are not water-soluble. Dissolved ingredients can spread and penetrate better.

Ingredient 9 – Phenoxyethanol

Function: Preservative

Protects the product against some bacteria.

Ingredient 10 – Salicylic Acid

Function: Exfoliant

Chemical exfoliant. It penetrates deeper into the skin, mixes with black and whiteheads, and scoops them out. It also removes old cells that are no longer helpful for the skin.

It belongs to the beta hydroxy acids family.

It helps treat acne. Reduces the redness and irritation that can come with cysts and pimples (anti-inflammatory).

It can be a little drying.

It has to be between 0.5 and 2% to be effective.

A quick note on other ingredients

It is important to remember that in most skincare products when it comes to how much its ingredients help the skin, only the first 5 ingredients matter the most. After about the 7th ingredient, how much the ingredient can help the skin reduces significantly (except in some cases).

It has glycerin. Glycerin hydrates skin. However, the percentage of this product used is too small to make a significant impact.

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